This often happens when the overflow safety switch trips due to a clogged condensate drain. We clean out debris from the drain and test the system. Heat pumps also have head pressure controls that prevent AC operation when it's too cold outside.

This usually indicates the system is low on refrigerant charge. We check superheat and sub cooling levels, and if confirmed low, we add refrigerant and perform a leak search to determine what repair options are available.

Often the cooling is locked out on a manual reset high pressure switch. We reset the switch and cycle the system. Sometimes it could be a dead capacitor - we replace the capacitor, but if the condenser fan is also dead, that needs replacement too.

This is typically caused by low refrigerant combined with airflow issues like missing duct dampers. We add refrigerant, repair any ductwork problems, and educate homeowners that running AC during cold nights can cause overnight freezing.

We recover existing refrigerant, remove the old compressor and install new equipment, install a new inverter board, pressure test and evacuate the system, then recharge with factory refrigerant specifications and test operation.

When we fill the condensate drain with water and the pump doesn't engage, it usually means the condensate pan is full of debris and sludge. The condensate pump typically needs replacement.

Often the wireless thermostat isn't connecting to the wireless receiver due to a defective thermostat. With older zoned systems, parts could be obsolete, so we may recommend replacing entire zone controls or converting to one zone.

Usually the fan motor is old, overheating, and drawing dangerously high electrical current. We remove the failing motor and install a brand-new, factory-original OEM motor, then test wiring, voltage, and electrical currents.

A TXV replacement involves replacing the Thermostatic Expansion Valve to restore proper coolant flow and cooling capacity. The repair includes replacing the valve, reconnecting detached zone sensors, pressure testing, recharging refrigerant and testing the system.

Often the capacitor dies on the fan side and the compressor goes out on high limit during power issues. We let the compressor cool down, install a new capacitor, and the unit typically operates normally again.

Usually it's a really dirty filter restricting airflow. We replace the dirty filter and monitor the system with pressure gauges. With a clean filter, the system typically cools normally with no issues.

Often it's the fan capacitor going bad. We replace the capacitor and the unit operates normally again.

A leak search and repair takes 1 to 8 hours depending on the difficulty. We inspect the system, locate leaks (often at outdoor coils), re-weld lines as needed, evacuate the system and recharge with refrigerant.

Often it's a low dual capacitor in the condenser unit. We replace the capacitor and the system operates normally. Sometimes it could also be a control board issue sending voltage to the wrong components.