A heat pump that isn't heating can come down to several factors — a failed capacitor, a thermostat issue, a loose or faulty electrical connection, low refrigerant, a blower motor problem, and more. One common cause we see is a faulty thermostat sending low voltage to the heat pump (for example, 8 volts to the yellow wire instead of 24), which can blow the system fuse. In that case we replace the thermostat with a new smart model and connect it to the local weather service as the outdoor sensor. Because the causes vary, we diagnose the system first to pinpoint the exact issue before recommending a repair.

Could be a failed capacitor, hard start kit, contactor, or outdoor fan motor. For more complex repairs, there could be a leak in your system. One of the most common places for a leak is at the unit and line set itself, such as the suction line Schrader valve. If a critical service valve is obsolete and can't be replaced, the entire system may need upgrading.

During the winter, the unit gets encrusted in solid ice and needs defrosting before accurate diagnosis. After defrosting, we check for leaks, typically finding them at flare fittings on outdoor suction lines or bent service valves missing cap O-rings. We recover refrigerant, fix fittings, pressure test, and recharge.

Could be due to low refrigerant, or it could be operating normally since many customers aren't aware of the heat pump defrost cycle, which is a normal function. It could also mean your system isn't able to keep up, so the emergency heat comes on to compensate. This typically happens when the system can't satisfy the thermostat within 30 minutes, or when the thermostat is more than 3 degrees from the set temperature.

Usually caused by ice buildup on condenser fan blades causing an imbalance when spinning. Once the ice is removed, the vibration stops.

We test the system and often find the heat pump running normally with proper line set temperatures. The issue is usually the thermostat not sending signals based on inside temperature to turn on electric heat. We install a new smart thermostat that properly stages electric heat based on temperature calls.

Often caused by a cracked condenser fan blade. We replace the condenser fan blade to eliminate the noise.

We recover existing refrigerant, remove the compressor and inverter board and replace with new factory components. We pressure test the system (should hold 500 PSI of pressure for 30 minutes), evacuate the system (should hold at 500 microns for 30 minutes), then recharge with factory specifications and test operation.

Usually means the heat pump is low on refrigerant and heat strips have bad relays. We typically replace the heat strip relays to resolve the issue.

Often we find one heat strip disconnected. We reconnect it and test heat strip function. When properly connected, heat pump and auxiliary heat stage on properly and the system operates normally.

Usually indicates leaks on factory welds at mufflers or loose brass caps on suction service valves. We fix the leaks, pressure test the system, vacuum it down below 500 microns with valves closed, then charge with proper refrigerant amount.

Yes, we replace defrost boards and temperature sensors on a case-by-case basis. We install new defrost controls and put thermostats in emergency heat mode to allow ice to thaw so we can test repairs, then return after the ice melts to switch thermostats back to heat pump mode and verify proper operation. One thing to note: for older systems, there can be long wait times for factory-ordered defrost boards.

Often indicates compressor failure. We test all windings to ground - if not grounded but fan runs without compressor plugged in, the compressor has internally failed. On older R-22 systems (22+ years), we typically recommend whole system replacement.

Usually a blown amp fuse on the outdoor control board. We use a fuse popper to locate the short, secure loose wires, install a new fuse, and test system operation.